To recap: We’ve talked about the importance of a good SPF, and ingredients that are MSH inhibitors and tyrosinase inhibitors, and which products you can find those in.
Now onto interrupting that pigmentation formation with steps 4 & 5.
L Dopa Inhibitors
There only one single ingredient I’ve come across in this category. Aloesin, which is from the Aloe plant. Unfortunately ‘aloe vera’ doesn’t have the same effect as ‘aloesin’, which is a bioactive compound of Aloe.
I’m still looking for products / formulation with this ingredient!
There may be more L Dopa Inhibitors, but I haven’t come across them yet.
Melanosome transfer inhibitors
The last chance we get to stop pigmentation formation is where the melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes.
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), which also does a LOT of other cool things (it could have it’s own blog post!) and Daisy Blossom Extract help to inhibit the melanosome transfer.
These ingredients can be found in Specktra6’s Brightening Serum, Brightening Cleanser, and Brightening Essence. Niacinamide is in a lot of other products we carry, just ask!
This is how I’ve broken down the melanogenesis process and how to interrupt it (as I understand it) I hope you find my information to be accurate. If I need to look at something more closely, please leave me a comment!
In Step 1 we learned why SPF is so incredibly important, and Step 2 touched on MSH inhibitors.
“Tyrosinase is an oxidase that is the rate-limiting enzyme for controlling the production of melanin.” That sentence comes straight from Wikipedia. It’s kind of confusing. Really you just need to know that there are a LOT of ingredients that help to stop pigmentation at this juncture.
I am only going to highlight a few of them for you, but first I want to talk about perhaps the most recognizable tyrosinase inhibitor, hydroquinone.
It’s a steroid compound, so it thins collagen over time
it’s banned in the UK because it’s possibly carcinogenic
it should only be used for three months at a time, whereas other lightening agents can be used constantly
it can cause darkening in some skin
exogenous ochronosis can occur (dark blue pigment)
hypopigmentation can occur
it’s not the most effective lightening agent on the market, and rebound darkening can occur when you stop using it
As I said above, there are loads of other tyrosinase inhibitors besides hydroquinone, and a lot of them are more effective and they don’t have crazy side effects. Vitamin A, Vitamin C, Alpha Arbutin, Bearberry, Licorice, Daisy Blossom, Mulberry, Ferula Foetida Extract, Kojic Acid, and Azelaic Acid. These ingredients can be found in Specktra6’s products Brightening Cleanser, Brightening Essence, Brightening Serum, and Bearberry Moisturizer, and in a lot of Environ products. Want to find out which products are best for your skin issues? Contact Ginger at Specktra6 today!